· FabLab Westharima Team · DIY · 9 min read
'[2025 Edition] Complete Soldering Guide for Electronics | Basics and Tips Even Beginners Won't Fail'
Essential soldering techniques for electronics explained from basics. A complete guide covering necessary tools, proper procedures, and tips for success that beginners can master with confidence.
If you’re starting with electronics, soldering is an unavoidable skill. While it may seem difficult at first, it’s a technique that even beginners can reliably master by understanding the correct procedures and tips.
In this article, I’ll explain in detail everything from soldering basics to practical techniques, common failure cases and their solutions, incorporating my own experiences.
What is Soldering?
Soldering is a technique of melting metal solder with heat to electrically connect electronic components and circuit boards.
Purpose of Soldering
- Electrical Connection: The primary purpose is to electrically connect components
- Physical Fixation: As a secondary effect, it also fixes components to the board
- Ensuring Reliability: When properly soldered, stable electrical signals flow
Soldering is not meant to provide strength to the joint, but rather to establish electrical connections. Therefore, it’s important not just to consider appearance, but to create a state where electricity flows correctly.
Necessary Materials and Tools
- We recommend considering ease of use and researching before purchasing your own equipment.
- I’ll introduce examples of tools that I actually found easy to use.
Basic Set (Absolutely Necessary)
| Tool | Description | Recommended Products (for beginners) |
|---|---|---|
| Soldering Iron | Tool for melting solder. Temperature control function (30W or higher) is essential | goot Temperature-Controlled Soldering Iron PX-280 Ideal for beginners with temperature control. Adjustable from 200-500°C. I’ve always been a Hakko user, but when I tried this product, the temperature rises as quickly as a station model and I found it very easy to use. It’s so comfortable that I have no complaints at all. |
| Iron Stand | Stand for safely placing the soldering iron. Essential for preventing burns and fires | goot Iron Stand ST27 Convenient with 2 types of tip cleaners |
| Solder | Wire solder is common. Lead-free solder is mainstream. 0.6mm diameter is beginner-friendly. | Hakko Lead-Free Solder 0.6mm |
| Flux | Chemical agent that improves solder flow. Dramatically increases success rate | Hakko (HAKKO) Lead-Free Solder Compatible Electronic Component Flux FS200-01 Paste type, easy to apply. |
| Solder Wick | Removes failed solder. 2-3mm width is easy to use | Hakko (HAKKO) Solder Wick FR551-2515-J Contains flux, easy to use |
| Nipper | Cuts excess component leads. Thin-blade precision type is convenient | WORKPRO Thin-Blade Nipper Optimal sharpness for electronics |
Useful Additional Tools
| Tool | Description | Recommended Products |
|---|---|---|
| Tweezers | Essential for holding and positioning small parts | (goot) Precision Tweezers Eagle Mouth Type TS-15 Precision tip, non-slip |
| Multimeter | Used for continuity checking after soldering | AstroAI DM6000AR Beginner-friendly with continuity buzzer |
| Wire Stripper | Tool for stripping wire insulation | Vessel (VESSEL) Wire Stripper 3500E-3 AWG 12/ 14/ 16/ 18/ 20/ 22/ 24 |
| Masking Tape | Temporarily fixes components | 3M Yellow 15mm×18m M40J-15 |
Lead-Free vs. Lead-Based Solder Differences
There are two types of solder: lead-free and lead-based (eutectic solder). Currently, due to environmental regulations, lead-free solder has become mainstream, but it’s important to understand the characteristics of each.
Comparison Table
| Item | Lead-Free Solder | Lead-Based Solder (Eutectic) |
|---|---|---|
| Main Components | Tin (Sn), Copper (Cu), Silver (Ag), etc. | Tin (Sn) 63% + Lead (Pb) 37% |
| Melting Point | Approx. 217-227°C (high) | Approx. 183°C (low) |
| Working Temperature | 350-380°C | 320-350°C |
| Finish | Slightly cloudy silver color. Moderate gloss | Shiny silver color. Strong gloss |
| Flowability | Somewhat stiff, less fluid | Soft, flows smoothly |
| Working Difficulty | Somewhat difficult (requires high temperature & long heating) | Beginner-friendly |
| Safety | Non-toxic (environmentally & human-friendly) | Lead is toxic substance. Handle with care |
| Odor | Somewhat strong flux odor | Relatively less odor |
| Price | Somewhat expensive | Inexpensive |
| Applications | Commercial products, general electronics | Hobby, personal use (not subject to regulations) |
Which Should You Choose?
| User | Recommendation | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Beginners | Lead-free solder | Current mainstream and safer. Somewhat difficult, but should get used to it from the start |
| Experienced (Hobby) | Either | Lead-based if prioritizing workability, lead-free if prioritizing safety |
| Commercial/Professional | Lead-free solder | Lead-free is required due to environmental regulations like RoHS directive |
Tips for Beginners Using Lead-Free Solder
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Set temperature higher | Set to 350-380°C. Solder won’t melt easily if too low |
| Heating time slightly longer | Heat 1-2 seconds longer than lead-based (about 4-5 seconds) |
| Use flux actively | Lead-free has low flowability, so compensate with flux |
| Thoroughly manage tip temperature | Use a soldering iron with temperature control |
| Ensure sufficient ventilation | Ventilation is essential as flux produces more smoke |
Caution: When using lead-based solder, always wash your hands after work and don’t work near food or drinks. Lead is toxic to humans.
How to Identify Good Soldering
The quality of soldering can be judged by appearance.
Three Characteristics of Good Soldering
| Characteristic | Description |
|---|---|
| Mt. Fuji Shape | - Solder forms a gentle “Mt. Fuji” shape - Peak is not sharp, spreads smoothly |
| Smooth Surface | - Glossy and shiny - No air bubbles or cracks |
| Firmly Attached to Both Pad and Lead | - Solder spreads across the entire pad (circular copper connection area on the board) - Also properly wets the component lead wire (metal wire extending from component) |
Characteristics of Bad Soldering
These failures cause electrical contact problems or shorts, so be sure to fix them when found.
| Failure Example | Appearance | Cause |
|---|---|---|
| Cold Solder Joint | Solder forms a ball shape, not adhering to pad or lead wire | Insufficient heating |
| Eyeball Solder | Solder only on pad, lead wire floating | Insufficient lead wire heating |
| Bridge | Multiple pads connected by solder | Too much solder |
| Rosin Residue | Solder only attached to surface | Insufficient temperature or flux residue |
| Solder Spike | Solder tip pointed like a spike | Iron removed too slowly |
Basic Soldering Procedure
Here I’ll explain the procedure that’s hard to fail even for beginners.
STEP 1: Preheat the Soldering Iron
Preheat the soldering iron for 2-3 minutes before use.
- For temperature-controlled models: Set to 320-350°C
- Iron tip shining silver indicates proper temperature
- If blackened, clean with cleaner
Point: Don’t work in places where air conditioner or fan wind directly hits. Temperature drops easily.
STEP 2: Fix the Board and Components
Place components on the board and temporarily fix with masking tape.
- Fix firmly so components don’t move
- Component leads (lead wires) should stick out slightly on the back side of the board
- No need to be too long as you’ll cut them later
Note: Ideally you should cut lead wires to proper length beforehand, but for DIY, the method of cutting later for ease of fixing is also acceptable.
STEP 3: Clean the Iron Tip
Clean the iron tip with a cleaner just before soldering.
- Sponge type: Wipe the tip with a lightly moistened sponge
- Wire type: Insert into wire to remove dirt
Important: If the tip is blackened by oxidation, solder will be repelled and likely fail.
STEP 4: Apply Flux (If Necessary)
If solder flow is poor or you want to ensure success, apply a small amount of flux to the pad and lead wire.
- Flux evaporates easily, so work quickly after application
- For beginners, applying every time reduces failures
- Contains rosin, so always close the lid tightly after use.
STEP 5: Heat the Pad and Lead Wire
This is the most important step.
Lay the iron tip flat
- Contact the side of the tip (silver part) broadly to the pad
- Don’t hold it vertically, tilt it about 30-45 degrees
Heat both pad and lead wire simultaneously
- Use the tip to sandwich the contact point of pad and lead wire
- Heating time is about 3-4 seconds
Tip: Laying the tip flat increases contact area and efficiently transfers heat. This is the biggest point of successful soldering.
STEP 6: Melt and Flow the Solder
Once the pad and lead wire are sufficiently heated, add solder.
Lightly touch the solder
- Don’t touch the solder to the iron tip, touch it to the contact point of pad and lead wire
- Confirm solder melts and flows smoothly
When solder forms Mt. Fuji shape, remove solder first
- Keep the iron still touching
- Amount of solder should cover the entire pad (be careful not to use too much)
Wait 1-2 seconds, then quickly remove the iron
- Removing slowly creates “spikes”
- The trick is to remove quickly
STEP 7: Cooling and Confirmation, Cut Excess Leads
Wait 5-10 seconds for the solder to solidify.
- Moving before solidification causes “cold solder joints”
- Once solidified, cut excess lead wires with nippers
- When cutting, cut 1-2mm above the solder base
Finally, check:
- Is it Mt. Fuji shaped?
- Is the surface smooth and glossy?
- Is it firmly attached to both pad and lead wire?
STEP 8: Continuity Check
- After soldering is complete, always perform a continuity check.
- Before turning on power, use the continuity mode of a multimeter to check if each pin and pad is properly connected and there are no shorts.
- If you hear a buzzer sound during measurement, it’s normal; if not, there may be a broken connection.
- Check important circuits like power lines and GND especially carefully, and only turn on power if there are no problems.
- This simple step can prevent circuit troubles.
10 Tips to Avoid Failure
Here are practical tips summarized.
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| 1. Preheat iron sufficiently | Wait at least 2-3 minutes |
| 2. Keep tip clean at all times | Frequently wipe with cleaner during work |
| 3. Use iron tip laid flat | Broad contact area for efficient heating |
| 4. Heat pad and lead wire sufficiently | Follow 3-4 second heating time |
| 5. Use proper amount of solder | Not too much or too little. Enough to cover pad |
| 6. Remove iron quickly | Removing slowly creates spikes |
| 7. Don’t move until solidified | Wait 5-10 seconds |
| 8. Work in place without wind | Avoid air conditioner or fan wind |
| 9. Utilize flux | Reapply flux when solder is repelled |
| 10. Don’t force it if failed, redo | Remove failed solder with wick and retry |
What to Do When Soldering Fails
Everyone fails sometimes. Deal with it calmly.
Solder Removal Method
| Step | Details |
|---|---|
| 1. Prepare solder wick | Cut solder wick (braid) to appropriate length |
| 2. Place wick on failed area | Place wick on solder to be removed |
| 3. Heat with iron | Apply iron on top of wick, confirm solder melts and is absorbed into wick |
| 4. Remove wick | Once solder is absorbed, remove wick and iron simultaneously, discard used portion of wick |
| 5. Solder again | Clean pad and lead wire, then solder again |
Common Troubles and Solutions
| Trouble | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Solder is repelled | Tip oxidation, insufficient flux | Clean tip, apply flux |
| Solder won’t flow | Insufficient temperature or heating time | Increase temperature (up to 350°C), extend heating time |
| Bridge forms | Too much solder | Remove excess solder with wick |
| Cold solder joint | Insufficient heating, moved before solidification | Extend heating time, wait until solidified |
| Tip is black | Deterioration from oxidation | Replace tip |
Soldering Safety Measures
Since soldering irons reach high temperatures (over 300°C), safety measures are essential.
Safety Precautions
| Precaution | Details |
|---|---|
| Beware of burns | - Iron tip and solder are extremely hot - Never touch with bare hands during work - Don’t touch for over 10 minutes even after use |
| Don’t forget ventilation | - Smoke (flux vapor) is produced when melting solder - For long work, turn on exhaust fan or open windows |
| Fire prevention | - Always place iron on stand - Don’t work near flammables - Always turn off power after work |
| Eye protection | - Solder can splatter - Consider wearing safety glasses |
| Health | Continuously inhaling solder smoke can irritate your throat, so using local ventilation or a small fan is also recommended. |
Recommended Practice Methods for Beginners
The more you practice soldering, the better you get.
Practice Steps
| Practice Method | Details |
|---|---|
| 1. Practice on universal board | - Repeat soldering pads and lead wires on inexpensive universal board - Practice with cheap components like resistors and LEDs |
| 2. Use soldering kits | - Purchase beginner electronics kits and practice - If finished product works, it proves successful soldering |
| 3. Compare good and bad examples | - Take photos of your soldering for later review - Keeping a stock of failure examples accelerates improvement |
Summary: Anyone Can Solder Once They Get the Hang of It
While soldering may seem difficult at first, it’s a technique that even beginners can definitely master by understanding the correct procedures and tips.
Key Points of This Article
- Characteristics of good soldering: Mt. Fuji shape, smooth surface, secure attachment to pad and lead wire
- Most important tip: Lay the tip flat and heat pad and lead wire sufficiently
- If you fail: Remove with solder wick and calmly redo
- Safety first: Beware of burns, ventilation, fire
Once you can solder, the range of your electronics projects will greatly expand. Even if you fail at first, practice many times and master it.
I hope your electronics life becomes more enjoyable and fulfilling.
Reference Videos
The following video is very easy to understand and highly recommended for reference.



